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[回鄉趴趴造 / Homecoming Tours]

華山文創, Hua Shan Creative Center

這次年初的台灣行有好多在紐約時我就計劃好要去走走的地方。

Earlier this year while we were still in New York, I had already picked out a number of specific places to visit for our Taiwan trip.

華山文創, Hua Shan Creative Center

華山1914文創園區便是其中我最想去走走看看的地方。回台後的第一個沒有下雨的一天我先帶牛奶去看看台灣出名的光華商場後就往華山的方向前進了。

Huashan 1914 Creative Park was on the top of my list of must go. So on the first non-rainy day since we’ve arrived in Taipei, I brought Milk to the infamous Guang Hua Digital Plaza first then headed towards Huashan.

華山文創, Hua Shan Creative Center

這個座落在城市大樓中位於高架橋旁的舊酒廠, 有著悠久的歷史, 從1914年代代轉變至現在的文創中心。有著販賣台灣獨立設計師作品的店家, 頗具風味的餐廳, 而我最喜歡的就是有著幽幽藤蔓綠葉覆蓋的舊酒廠建築物。

Nestled in central Taipei hidden next to the high rises and under the highway exit, this cultural center/ex sake brewery has had a long history since 1914. Generations of ownership changes as a sake brewery and finally it became the quiet corner in Taipei city today. There are shops that sell creations from local Taiwanese artists, unique restaurants and my favorite, the green vine-covered old architecture throughout the ground.

華山文創, Hua Shan Creative Center

華山文創, Hua Shan Creative Center

不管走到哪一個角落, 都有古舊可人的小細節。

No matter where we walked, there are lovely details from the past.

華山文創, Hua Shan Creative Center

華山文創, Hua Shan Creative Center

華山文創, Hua Shan Creative Center

華山文創, Hua Shan Creative Center

華山文創, Hua Shan Creative Center

在鬧市中能看見這些綠意一下子忘了還在繁華台北市中心。

Seeing the green in the midst of urban settings made me forget that I was still in the busy central Taipei.

華山文創, Hua Shan Creative Center

華山文創, Hua Shan Creative Center

華山文創, Hua Shan Creative Center

展示著台灣磚瓦文化的角落。

A small corner showcasing the Taiwanese brick/tile culture.

華山文創, Hua Shan Creative Center

華山文創, Hua Shan Creative Center

華山文創, Hua Shan Creative Center

而在華山文創, 我不但興奮的看到學妹Mai及她未婚夫Wayne創作的Taiwan Hearts小台灣系列, 還新發現了兩個台灣自創品牌, 三和瓦窯艋舺肥皂。自己買了一些小物後也帶了點伴手禮, 並且非常幸運的和三和瓦窯的設計師連上線, 與瓦窯的跨海採訪我會擇日刊出。

At Huashan, I jump in excitement when I saw the Lil’ Taiwan from Taiwan Hearts, an independent label by Mai, my friend from school, and her fiancé Wayne. I also discovered two other very interesting independent labels, San He Tile Kiln and Monga Soap. Not only did I bring some stuff back to New York, I also bought some souvenir for friends and family. What’s more, I got in touch with the designer at San He Tile Kiln and did a short interview, this will be a separate post that I’m going to release very soon.

華山文創, Hua Shan Creative Center

接著走下去來到了小小一間, 展著照片書籍並販賣品質高級的冷泡茶坊,一間茶屋。

As we continue our walk, we came across this tiny tea house, which also serves as a bookstore and a photography exhibition venue. The name of the place is simply called “A Tea house.”

華山文創, Hua Shan Creative Center

華山文創, Hua Shan Creative Center

走著逛著也不知不覺來到下午茶時間, 華山裡除了有Alley Cat’s Pizza, AL CICCHETTO 義麵坊小酒館, 青葉新樂園, TRIO Cafe, 還有我們造訪的家傢酒

As we tour the grounds and snap photos, it was time to make a pit stop in the afternoon. There are many unique restaurants in Huashan, such as Alley Cat’s Pizza, AL CICCHETTO, Aoba, TRIO Cafe and the one we picked as an afternoon tea spot, 1914 Furnifood.

華山文創, Hua Shan Creative Center

華山文創, Hua Shan Creative Center

華山文創, Hua Shan Creative Center

因為整個餐廳以非常隨性的感覺呈現, 裡面的椅子桌子每一桌都不同, 加上下午茶是台式風格我們才走進去的。關廟土鳳梨酥果然名不虛傳, 加上溫暖的紅棗茶, 在台北陰冷的冬天裡我倆非常滿足。一邊翻著店家提供的台北藝文活動簡介一邊閒聊, 時間也一下子就過了。這真的是一個園區內安靜又放鬆的角落, 你知道為什麼嗎?來這家店的另外兩桌客人也都是來聊天的, 一桌聊心事, 一桌聊電影製作, 兩桌都是以悠閒沒有趕時間的態度輕聲細談。

We picked this particular spot because the whole place looks casual and comfortable. The interior decoration is unpretentious with mis-matched furniture. Also, they serve a Taiwanese style afternoon tea. The organic pineapple cakes and the warm jujube tea in a chilling winter day made both of us very happy. We sat, ate and chatted while flipping through a store-provide newsletter on all the cultural activities in Taiwan. It was a great place to just relax and hangout, how could we tell? While we were there, there were two other tables of customers. Customers from table one were spilling their hearts out to each other and customers from table two were finessing the details of their film production, but none of them looked like they were in a rush to get anywhere.

華山文創, Hua Shan Creative Center

華山文創, Hua Shan Creative Center

而朋友們, 為什麼我在紐約就這麼想來探勘華山文創呢? 因為一年前在拍婚紗照的時候, 華山是我鎖定的外拍地點。但因為拍照當天是一年來台北最冷的一天(6ºC), 飄著陰雨, 加上我倆重感冒, 攝影小組為了我們的安全勸我們作罷。所以, 我一直對這個場所有點憧憬。

And my friends, why did I insist on visiting Huashan 1914? Because a year ago when we were about to get married, I requested to have our wedding photos taken here. I absolutely fell in love with the backdrop and the architecture. But the day we met with the photographer was also the coldest winter day in Taiwan (42ºF) that winter. Not only that, the both of us were having the worst flu ever, the photography team persuaded us to stay indoors so we wouldn’t get more sick from the weather. And this is why this place has always been a little dreamy for me.

華山文創, Hua Shan Creative Center

華山文創, Hua Shan Creative Center

我這天逛的很開心, 拍的很開心,也吃的很開心, 我大樂。華山, 這也不會是我最後一次來看你的!

I had a great day with the shopping, the shooting, the eating, I was happy. And Huashan, this is not going to be the last time I see you!

九份是知名的「悲情城市」電影場景, 也是使宮崎駿畫出場景層次及色彩都極度鮮明的「神隱少女」靈感所在地。

Jiufen is the famous location where the award-winning movie “A City of Sadness” was filmed; it is also the backdrop inspiration for Hayao Miyazaki’s heavily layered and colorful “Spirited Away.”

Jiu Fen in the rain

過去的四年, 每一次的返鄉都包括了太多紀念妹妹的活動, 並沒有真正的帶牛奶看看除了台北以外的地方。今年返鄉前打定主意一定要四處走走看看。剛好姊姊也從上海回台跨年, 於是我們約好在2011的最後一天一起頂著綿綿陰雨上山去九份。

We spent most of our time in activities for the memorial of my younger sister for the past four years of visiting Taiwan that there wasn’t really any chance to show Milk anything outside of Taipei. Before heading home this time, I made up my mind to see as much as we can without jeapordizing family time. Older sis also came back to Taiwan from Shanghai to spent the New Year, so we made a date for the last day of 2011 to go on a day trip to Jiufen despite the rain.

Jiu Fen Tea House

以前每一次去九份天氣都很晴朗, 所以總是四處走逛。而這次下著雨的天氣讓我們專注於吃, 買買小物, 並且有時間好好的泡壺茶聊天。雖然沒有去到傳說中的阿妹茶坊, 但來到被列為「歷史建築」的九份茶坊, 我也讓牛奶見識到了真正的功夫茶泡法, 喝到了清香順口的梨山高山茶, 嘗到了酸甜的脆梅及香氣十足的竹炭花生。

It was sunny every other time I visited Jiufen in the past so we always had the luxury of roaming the mountains and exploring the alleys. The rain this time had forced us to just focus on eating and shopping. Fortunately, it also allowed us to leisurely sit and chat over some really good tea. Though we didn’t make it to the famous “A-Mei Tea house,” we stopped by “Jiufen Tea house” which is located in a preserved historic building. Not only did Milk learn the proper way to make tea in Taiwan, tasted the fragrant and light Oolong from Li Shan (Pear Mountain), he also got to taste two tea snacks – the sweet and tart pickled plum and the charcoaled peanuts.

All types of tea

炭燒的熱水壺及竹炭花生。

The charcoal-boiled water kettle for us to make tea with and the charcoaled peanuts.

Charcoal Peanuts with Oolong Tea

刻上貓圖樣的桌號。

Our table number comes with a kitty-clad carved stone.

Tea house table number

除了是一間茶坊, 從茶坊下層的後院還能直接連到一個藝術展示空間。茶館內除了喝茶, 還能看到不少陶藝品, 都為山中藝術工作者提供, 也有一些畫作, 是一個非常好的聊天休憩空間。因為相機沒電所以可惜沒有照到所有內部細節。

Not only is this a tea house, the lower level has a cute little garden that connects the tea house to a art exhibition area. The tea house not only provide great tea-tasting experiences but it also features quite a number of paintings and ceramic work by local artists. A perfect place to relax and enjoy some down time. It’s a shame that I didn’t get all the details of the beautiful interior… all because of the dead battery in my camera…

A little piece of haven

這天還做了什麼呢? 來了九份, 小食店林立, 魚丸湯是一定要吃的。

What else did we do that day? Jiufen is filled with small eateries, and the fish ball soup is one of the signature and must try.

Fish Ball Soup Vendor

Raw fishballs

隨處可見的紅糟肉丸。

The red yeast Taiwanese meatball, Ba Wan, can be seen everywhere in Jiufen.

Taiwanese Meatball - Ba Wan

Taiwanese Meat Ball

九份有名的芋圓, 可惜我們吃太快完全沒有拍到照。

Chewy taro balls, Yu Yuan, is the most famous and signature dessert from Jiufen and it’s another shame that we ate too fast for me to capture any images of the actual dessert.

Taro Ball Vendor

Taro Ball Making

懷舊的咁仔店。

Old-style deli in Taiwan, they are absolutely lovely.

Old Style Grocery Store

木製家庭小物店。

Home accessories made with wood.

old style houseware store

手工的皮製小物。

Handmade leather accessories.

leather craft

這次天氣實在太差, 我們吃完喝完後雨竟然下的更大, 很多原本希望能看到走到的地方都一一放棄。非常希望下次回台時能遇到好天氣。為了這件事, 我們也認真的討論過也許下次應該要在別的季節返鄉, 而不是在溼冷的冬天。在此分享一些2010年我單獨回台在晴天時看到的景致:

The weather was just so miserable, after all the eating and tea-tasting, it was actually pouring. We gave up on visiting the place we had plan to, and we really to get some good weather the next time we visit. After leaving Taiwan, we actually had a serious discussion about this. It might be good for us to visit in a different season, not in the wet and chilly winter. But for now I want to share some photos from my solo-trip back to Taiwan back in 2010 when the weather was gorgeous:

Mountain top

View from Gold Mining Museum

From the top of the mountain

Mining Cart Tracks

Stairs, lots of them

Climbing to the MIne

每一次回鄉, 我總是為了改變而驚喜, 也為了改變而感傷。每一次的新鮮感讓我悸動, 但每一次的陌生感也讓我難過沒有在台灣看著這些轉變。而我有外國老公最棒的地方是, 為了讓他多看, 和他一起走看時也補償了我住在國外許久對台灣的思念, 每次也都學到很多。之前一直都不以為意的東西, 為了讓這個什麼都不懂的老公搞懂, 我反而也有了更深的瞭解。啊, 原來台灣真的如此可愛。

Each homecoming to Taiwan, I would always be surprised yet saddened by the changes. All the new things excite me, but all the rapid changes also make me feel a bit of an outsider for not being there to witness the growth. However, the best thing about having a non-Taiwanese husband is that my urge of helping him absorb the culture also forces me to see more with him. It really mends all the homesickness I had while in New York. I also find that I learn with him. All the things I used to take for granted, to make him understand from a completely foreign perspective, I learn to have a deeper understanding in the culture. And every single time I’m pleasantly overwhelmed with the feeling of just how lovely Taiwan is.

這次的行程將分為6到7篇文來發表, 這是第一篇, 之後回台的遊記也都會整理在[回鄉趴趴造]裡囉!

I will be posting 6 to 7 blog entries for our trip this time, this is just the first one, and I’m going to keep adding more to [Homecoming Tours] with our future visits to Taiwan for many years to come!