紐約瘋什麼 / New York Raves No. 10

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吃素也能很潮 / Vegetarian Dining Can Be Hip

紐約最讓人傾倒的是它多樣性的面貌, 有世界各地來的人, 有各種生活形態, 有各種宗教, 有各種潮流, 有各種料理。在這個城市裡, 不論你是什麼樣的人, 只要不犯法, 都能被受到尊重。相同的, 任何的飲食習慣也都可以被接受。近年來基於健康的飲食習慣, 響應環保的理念, 慢慢的素食在紐約也變成一股主流。在這裡, 素食者的飲食習慣是完全被接受, 尊重, 且與宗教信仰並不成等號的。很單純, 無負擔的, 素食只是眾多選擇中的一種。

New York is well-loved for its multidimensional nature. There are people from all over the world, endless variety of lifestyles, countless trends, boundless cuisines. In this city, no matter who you are, as long as you're not devious by nature, what you do with your life would always be respected. In recent years, people in the city are getting more conscious about healthy eating habits and our duties in defending the wellness of the environment. Vegetarianism and veganism have almost become mainstream in New York City. And of course this is a city that embraces all types of diet. In NYC, vegetarianism and veganism are completely accepted, respected, and not automatically linked to religion (i.e. buddhism). Simply put, vegetarianism and veganism are just two among the many choices of diets.

而在這個料理天堂, 許多餐廳紛紛跟進, 配合著大廚的飲食理念自創出一道道素食佳肴, 讓外食的素食者也能有所選擇。這些餐廳除了氣氛佳, 提供對身體不會產生太大負擔的料理, 口味也令人難忘。接下來就推薦幾家到了紐約不可不知的素食餐廳。

In the foodie-heaven we call New York, many chefs have come up with their own vegetarian/vegan friendly menus without breaking the original concepts of of their restaurants. Not only do they provide great atmosphere, healthful nutritious options, the food is usually amazingly delicious. And now please allow me to introduce a few of my very favorites:

1. Kajitsu

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這是一家專供懷石料理的日本餐廳, 永遠都要及早預約但非常值得的一家好店。大廚每個月會應節氣及當地食材在Menu上做調整, 甚至連當月推薦的茶都會配合餐點詳細的替客人介紹。基本上點餐時只有兩個套餐可以選擇, 一個是四道菜的風套餐, 一個是七道菜的花套餐。我個人非常推薦花套餐, 畢竟是難得訂到的餐廳, 應該要好好的享用。最令我難忘的是就算吃完七道精緻的菜, 我是舒服的飽, 腸胃沒有負擔的飽。當然看到美麗的擺盤, 新鮮的食材, 也驚嘆與大廚的想像力及功力。

This is a kaiseki-style Japanese restaurant, you should always book 1 month in advance in order to get a table but it's well worth the wait. The chef changes the menu every month based on what is available locally and seasonally, they would even pair a recommended tea with the menu. Basically there are two set courses, one is the 4-course Kaze menu, the other is the 7-course Hana menu. I personally recommend the Hana menu because if it took you 1 month to get in there, it's better to get your money's worth! The thing that really amazes me is that even after 7 courses, I'm never uncomfortably full, it's always a satisfying and happy fullness, no stress or indigestion. And of course, seeing how beautiful the dishes are plated and tasting the fresh and flavorful ingredients, I'm always blown away by the chef's imagination and culinary techniques.

2. Dirt Candy

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圖片來自Dirt Candy / Photos from Dirt Candy

Amanda Cohen帶著自己漂亮的履歷, 葷素料理都精通的技藝, 在紐約的下東城開了Dirt Candy。這家餐廳是一個廚房小到連轉身都需要和其他廚師配合的空間, 但這個迷你廚房端出來的菜非常的驚人。從使用的食材, 擺盤, 到酥脆軟嫩有層次的質感, 有深度的醬料, 完全顛覆了素食的概念。其中最令我難忘的一個前菜就是用蘑菇做成的肝醬, 不管是質感還是風味都讓我想要再來一盤。

Amanda Cohen has an impressive resumé, she has the skills to cook not only for the herbivore but also the omnivores. With the glorious background, she opened her own restaurant in the Lower East side called Dirt Candy. This is a super tiny restaurant that even a turn in the kitchen to grab plates would require team work, but everything from this mini kitchen is amazing. From the fresh ingredients, the beautiful presentations, the incredible textures and the flavorful sauces, they all blow my mind away and completely changed my perception of plant-based food. One of my most favorite dish has to be the mushroom paté, both the texture and the taste of this dish always makes me scream for seconds.

3. Cafe Blossom

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圖片來自Grub Street / Photos from Grub Street

Blossom在紐約有好幾家的分店, 有正規的餐廳, 也有全素的烘培坊, 是素食者最愛的餐廳系列之一。我非常喜歡他們的當日特餐,藜麥沙拉, 越式三明治, 及甜點。所有的餐點都有漂亮的外觀且完全不會平淡無味, 反而有濃厚的醬汁。它的價錢也比前面的兩家精緻餐廳要來得親民許多。是我在忙碌的週末常去的地方。

Blossom is a vegan chain in New York, within the chain, there are sit-down restaurants, pick-up joints and a bakery. I love their daily special, quinoa salad, bahn mi and the desserts. All of the dishes look great and taste better, not at all flavorless, in fact, they make some of the most amazing sauces. Compared to the two restaurants mentioned before Blossom, the price is also better, it has become one of our regular go-tos for the weekend.

4. Hangawi

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圖片來自Hangawi / Photos from Hangawi

大部分的人對於韓國料理的印象都是烤肉或是泡菜, 但其實韓國料理可算是最多樣化的亞洲料理之一。韓國人對於養生的熱衷及遵守中醫概念的思想方式使得他們的料理讓葷素者都非常喜愛。從不同的泡菜, 小菜, 煎餅, 鍋物, 麵食, 把所有的料理都吃一遭可能都還沒有輪到烤肉呢。Hangawi便是以全素為主的韓國料理, 他們自製的泡菜清淡好吃, 我經常要求打包一些回家料理用。除了多變的季節性料理, 他們的各類茶也很值得一試, 尤其是溼冷的天氣來一杯大棗茶, 全身都暖了起來。

When you mention Korean food, most people think about BBQ or kimchi, but Korean cuisine is probably one of the most dynamic cuisine among all Asian cuisine. Koreans are big on healthy eating, the herbal medicine theories are also integrated into their daily lives. The combination of the two make Korean cuisine approachable not only for the omnivores but also for the herbivores. With the giant variety of kimchi, banchan, jeon (pancakes), stews and noodles, we wouldn't even need to get to BBQ at all, and you can find this fantastic plant-based Korean cuisine at Hangawi. Their house-made kimchi is tasty yet not over powering, I often ask the restaurant to pack me a pint to bring home with me. Besides the ever-changing seasonal cuisine, all of their teas are worth a try, espeically on a cold and gloomy day, a cup of daechucha (jujube tea) warms you right up!

5. ABC Kitchen

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圖片來自Grub Street / Photos from Grub Street

這個由鼎鼎大名的Jean-Georges Vongerichten主持的farm-to-table(農場直送)餐廳在紐約已經火紅了一陣子了。但ABC對我來說最特別的地方是不論你的飲食習慣是葷是素, 貼心的服務人員都能配合替你搭配選擇最適合你的餐點。而且因為食材的頂尖, 法國料理的基礎, 每一道菜都讓人驚嘆。這是今年來紐約渡假的人我都大力推薦的好餐廳, 就連挑剔的素食者也都讚不絕口呢。

This farm-to table restaurant is part of the group of restaurants owned by Jean-Georges Vongerichten, and it's been sought after by foodies in New York for quite a while. At ABC, the service is special, it doesn't matter if you're a meat-eater or a veg-eater, the restaurant always recommends dishes that would go together to satisfy your palate. And because of the quality ingredients, solid french culinary techniques, each dish is beautiful and satisfying. It's a place that I highly recommend to anyone who is vacationing in New York, even the pickiest herbivores gush about this place.

經常大魚大肉的朋友們, 下次不妨試試這幾家素食餐廳。想吃有情調又美味的大餐不一定要是牛排或龍蝦喔!

To all who are constantly consuming meat or fish, why not give these places a try, a great meal doesn't necessarily mean you need to have steak or lobster all the time, cheers!

此系列的文章是與台灣(Malin+Goetz)10/10 Apothecary合作連載 Collaboration with (Malin+Goetz) Taiwan and 10/10 Apothecary for the entire series