紐約瘋什麼 / New York Raves No.8

舊金山番外篇 (下) / Hello, San Francisco! Part 2 New York Raves No.8上一篇介紹過舊金山的時尚旅館Clift之後, 接下來就要帶著各位讀者跟我一起以觀光客的心情走踏這個灣區城市。

In the previous post, I introduced the fashionable Clift hotel, and now I'm gonna take you through my journey as a tourist at the gorgeous bay city.

New York Raves No.8

第一站來到舊金山鼎鼎有名的反主流書店-City Light/城市之光。這是50年代披頭文化(Beat Generarion)及披頭族(Beatnik)活躍的場所。披頭文學主要以Jack Kerouac, William S. Burroughs與Allen Ginsberg為主軸發展出來, 以不受拘束, 自發性創造力與拒絕社會線條捆綁的態度為中心。來到城市之光單純的為了朝聖並享受在這個有歷史聲音的地點翻翻書, 並充分感受這個輕鬆的空間。

Our first stop is the infamous independent bookstore - City Light. This was the hot spot in the 50s for the Beatniks and the birth place for the Beat Generation. This genre of literature is usually referred to as The Beats and is centered around the work of Jack Kerouac, William S. Burroughs and Allen Ginsberg. This wave of thoughts capsulized free-will, self-inspired creativity, and the will to refuse conformity with society. City Light was on our must-visit list simply because we wanted to visit the place that made history and created impact to American literature. We get to experience being inside of the bookstore, reading and flipping through poetry in a mellow and relaxing environment.

New York Raves No.8 圖片來自Bar Tartine網站 / Images from Bar Tartine

從書局出來後一路沿著中國城逛回旅館, 梳洗之後便前往Tartine Bakery的同名餐廳Bar Tartine用晚餐。這裡每一道菜都是創新, 充分利用當地當季的食材。我們點了幾個手工的醃菜試試, 第一次嘗到醃漬入味且不帶土味的甜菜根及胡蘿蔔, 主菜的燉煮豬肉及煎魚也都非常可口。當然這裡的佐餐麵包也是來自於Tartine Bakery的, 沒有時間前去Tartine Bakery的我們也就在這裡放開心的品嘗香軟的手工麵包。吃飽喝足我們便回旅館休憩期待接下來兩天的行程。

After our short trip to the bookstore, we walked through Chinatown and window-shopped all the way back to the hotel. After a change of clothes, we headed out to Bar Tartine for dinner. I'm sure many of you have heard of the famed Tartine Bakery, yup, Bar Tartine is its sister restaurant! All of the dishes here are innovative and fully incorporated the local and seasonal ingredients. We ordered a few types of pickles, definitely my first time having carrot and beet pickles that aren't bitter or overtly earthy. Our braised short rib and seared fish entrees are both delicious as well. And of course, the bread basket is filled with freshly baked bread from Tartine Bakery, if you have no time to visit Tartine Bakery, you get to taste the deliciousness here. After a satisfying dinner, we went back to the hotel for some R&R to prepare for all the things we want to do in the next two days.

New York Raves No.8 圖片來自Yank Sing網站 / Images from Yank Sing

舊金山有大量的的廣東移民, 因此這裡的港式飲茶特別道地。我們選擇了雖然價格比較貴但受到不同朋友及網站推薦的Yank Sing/羊城。愛餃如我點了一整桌不同口味的蒸餃煎餃, 另一半點了一籠想念已久的小籠包, 配上燙菜心, 好飽好滿足。我私心推薦豆苗蒸餃, 太好吃了。

There are a large number of Cantonese immigrants in San Francisco, so the Dim Sum here is known for its authenticity, and of course we had to try it! We picked the pricier but really highly recommended Yank Sing. As a true-dumpling lover, I ordered a table full of different dumplings, and my better-half ordered his favorite, soup dumplings. Along with blanched choy sum, this meal was incredibly fulfilling. And I personally recommend the snow pea shoot steamed dumplings, they were truly delicate and tasty.

New York Raves No.8

在羊城用過午餐後我們步行前往Ferry Building, 這個在灣區大橋旁的美食聖殿在每週六都有超優質的農夫市場。知道我瘋農夫市場的朋友們應該都不難想像我有多興奮, 恨不得把所有看到的好食材通通搬回紐約。在紐約看不到的新鮮猴頭菇讓我垂涎不已, 錐形的高麗菜也讓我看得咋舌。

After Yank Sing, we walked a few blocks to the Ferry Building. This gourmet heaven located right by the Bay Bridge has a incredible farmer's market every Saturday. If you know how much I LOVE farmer's market, you could probably imagine how excited I was to be able to walk in it, touch and smell everything. I literally wished I could pack up all of the fresh ingredients and take them home to New York. Especially the fresh Lion's Mane mushroom that I've never seen in New York, as well as cone-shaped young cabbage.

New York Raves No.8

而Ferry Building的裡面更是匯集了美食及好店家。特別多種類的Far West Fungi菇麕專賣店, 全素食的Pepples甜甜圈, 手工司康餅, ACME手工麵包, 義式香腸專賣店, Happy Girl Kitchen Co. 的醃漬泡菜, 美麗的Heath Ceramics陶瓷品, 灣區有名的甜點店Miette, 甚至還看到了茶葉蛋。我們逛得不亦樂乎並充分享受了當觀光客的感覺。

The Ferry building is also a central location for great eats and shopping. To name some, Far West Fungi is a specialized mushroom store that sells double digit variety of mushrooms, Pepples make really delicious vegan donuts, an amazing homemade scone stand, ACME bakery, Italian sausage specialty store, Happy Girl Kitchen Co. with their amazing pickles and kimchi, Heath Ceramics with their sturdy and minimalist dinnerware, the west coast popular pastry store, Miette, and I even saw a stand selling Chinese tea eggs! We truly enjoyed walking through the entire hall and got a kick out of being tourists.

New York Raves No.8

下午搭乘Bart來到Mission區, 先到僅此一家的Four Barrel咖啡停駐半個小時啜飲由他們親自烘培的咖啡豆製成的手沖咖啡。並開心的看到了純手工超小量生產的Dandelion Chocolate, 與手沖咖啡搭配起來成了完美的組合。

In the afternoon, we took the Bart to get to the Mission district. First stop at Mission was the one and only Four Barrel cafe, for half an hour of rest and some quality time to sip on their house-roasted coffee. I was also pleasantly surprised by the small-batch chocolate from Dandelion Chocolate, and yes, it went really well with the coffee.

New York Raves No.8

Mission除了有驚人完整的塗鴉牆面, 更是走逛小店的好場所。喜歡Voyager的獨特個性商品, Paxton Gate的可愛玩具, Mission Bicycle Company的腳踏車及相關商品, 在Aldea喜見獨特家飾用品及之前曾寫過文的Forage Ties, 還巧遇Her Majesty’s Secret Beekeeper養蜂達人店中的鎮店寵物公雞。要離開Mission區前還意猶未盡。

Besides the incredible graffitis on the walls in the Mission, this entire district is filled with stylish boutiques. I love the unique garments and accessories from Voyager, adored the lovely toys from Paxton Gate, drooled over the bikes and accessories at Mission Bicycle Company, discovered one-of-a-kind home wares at Aldea, including Forage Ties, which I've written about before, and met the pet cock at beekeeping specialty store, Her Majesty’s Secret Beekeeper. All I can say is we had too little time for such an area, but I vow to return in the future.

New York Raves No.8

而晚餐選擇了環境舒適, 能品茶、能安心聊天、且能細嘗養生料理的Samovar茶屋。兩人對於茶的質地及養生餐的美味驚嘆不已, 這是我們都會想要再次回來靜坐品茶品食的場所。

After leaving Mission, we stopped by Samovar for dinner. Samovar is a relaxing teahouse that also focused on serving healthy and vegan bites. We were both astounded by the quality and large variety of tea they serve and how tasty our dinner was. It's a definite must-return spot and if I lived in SF, this would definitely be one of my go-to spots for tea and some light and healthy bites.

New York Raves No.8

飯後甜點來到了Smitten急凍冰淇淋, 是使用分子料理的原理作出的冰淇淋, 客人點選之後才一球一球製作, 非常有趣。口味不錯也適合想嘗鮮的朋友前往。而在這個叫做Hayes Valley的區域有很多精品店、藝廊、特色餐廳還有在戶外的Biergarten(戶外啤酒屋)可以聊天品酒, 非常值得花點時間走走。

Post dinner dessert had to be Smitten, a tiny ice cream shop that serves instant-freeze ice cream. Using the techniques from molecular gastronomy, all of Smitten's ice cream is made to order, it's amazing fun to watch. The ice cream are good and for anyone who's never tried it, it's a must. Smitten is located in Hayes Valley, an area that boasts boutique shops, art galleries and quality restaurants. There is also an outdoor Biergarten for beer-tasting and some fun time with friends. This is definitely an area that's worth spending your time at, another area that I must return in the future.

New York Raves No.8

週日是半工作性質的一天, 但還是安排前去品嘗B Star Bar的緬甸料理。灑了肉桂糖粉的印度煎餅還有緬甸獨特的茶葉沙拉都非常的美味, 沒有嘗過茶葉沙拉請注意這是一個辣度蠻高的沙拉。

Sunday was our half working day, but we still squeezed in a good Burmese lunch at B Star Bar. I picked this place because I was curious about their famous tea leaf salad. I have to say, both the tea leaf salad and cinnamon sugar platha were incredible. For all of you who's never had a Burmese tea leaf salad, please note that the spicy level on this salad is quite high.

New York Raves No.8

在午餐後去Golden Gate Park/金門公園散步便前去開會並打包準備飛回紐約了。這次的舊金山行很短但也非常豐富, 下次要好好的計劃並多留幾天好和在加州的朋友們一一會面。我們會再回來的, 謝謝你, 舊金山, for a great adventure。

After lunch and a short stroll at Golden Gate Park, we went to our work meeting and packed our stuff for our flight back to New York. This SF trip was a whirlwind and too short, next time we would spend more days on a trip so we get to meet up with all our friends in Cali. We shall return, San Francisco, thanks for a great adventure!

此系列的文章是與台灣(Malin+Goetz)10/10 Apothecary合作連載 Collaboration with (Malin+Goetz) Taiwan and 10/10 Apothecary for the entire series