紐約瘋什麼 / New York Raves No. 2
屬於紐約的咖啡屋 / New York only coffee house
Every New York morning, on the street, you would see almost everyone with a cup of coffee in their hands. And if you're a coffee-loving New Yorker, you must have a coffeehouse that is close to your heart.
90年代開始各種大型連鎖咖啡店在美國大肆崛起; 而由許多明星創造出來的咖啡杯不離手形象, 讓本來是成熟的大人才享用的咖啡變成年輕人為之瘋狂的流行配件。但很多潮流的咖啡飲品都參雜著複雜的糖漿, 較為廉價的奶類, 還有品質參差不齊的咖啡豆。真正的咖啡滋味忽然不被重視, 咖啡原本的純濃酸苦都被一層層的加料品蓋過, 有很多的人甚至不太清楚咖啡原本的味道。獨立且高品質的咖啡屋一直都存在於美國各地, 但在過去的二十年也有很多私人店家無法與大型連鎖店相抗衡而一一沒落。
Back in the 90s, chained coffeehouses invaded every corner of the US. Most of the celebrities were always coffee-clad in their paparazzi shots, all of a sudden, coffee drinks became popular accessories for the younger generation instead of a delicate beverage for the matured souls. A lot of these popular coffee drink are mixed with artificial syrup, commercial dairy, and coffee made from beans with uneven qualities. The real taste of coffee has been overlooked.The boldness, bitterness and texture of coffee were overwhelmed by all these additives. And many people don't even know or remember the real taste of coffee. Independent high quality coffeehouses have always been around in the US, but in the past twenty years some of them have suffered due to the fierce competition from big chains.
細看紐約, 你會發現近幾年來在紐約盛行的手作風造就出了各種不同行業的手工達人, 例如巧克力, 城市農耕, 無麩質烘培, 啤酒釀造, 皮製用品, 量身定做的腳踏車。你能想到的東西都有可能在紐約由一群達人在低調的醖釀。這是一個前所未見的趨勢。紐約一直被認為是撒錢聖地, 被重視的產業也大多是流行及金融的部分。但這幾年來很多的紐約客因為親身體驗了手作的樂趣, 被以純淨為出發點的飲食趨勢引領之下, 大家都非常享受尋找好食材。很多愛咖啡的人願意花時間去參加cupping(杯評)來瞭解不同的咖啡豆的味道, 也有人更深入的去學習如何成為專業的barista(咖啡師)。我相信這對於很多寧願享用即溶咖啡的朋友們來說非常的不可思議。但咖啡豆的產地土質及水質, 出產時的季節溫度及溼度, 採集運送及烘培的過程, 每一點都會影響咖啡豆的品質及味道, 其實與品酒的道理是一樣的。
Taking a closer look at New York, you will notice that the popular made-from-scratch trend in the past few years have nurtured a group of experts. There are chocolatier, urban farmers, gluten-free patisserie, beer-brewing master, leather accessory artists, personalized bicycle, take your pick, it's a thoroughly refreshing new trend. New York has always been thought of as the place for people who have deep pockets, and known as the city of finance and fashion. But the past few years, New Yorkers have been really enjoying the art of handcrafting. Also, with a major awareness of sustainable and clean food, many New Yorkers are enjoying the process of finding where their food comes from. Many coffee lovers would join cupping sessions to understand the difference in flavors of the various coffee beans, some of them would even go above and beyond to become baristas. I believe this seems overboard for people who are happy with just any coffee, but there is a real study in coffee beans. The climate, soil and water quality of where the beans grow, the temperature and humidity of the harvesting season, the way the beans are harvested, transported and roasted, all of these factors affect the taste of the beans. It's just like how we determine the quality of a bottle of wine.
而在這一波浪潮中很多堅持只用公平交易或直線交易咖啡豆的獨立咖啡屋也如雨後春筍般佔領了紐約街頭。除了好品質且不黑心的咖啡豆, 這些店家也選擇使用由紐約州的哈德森谷地(Hudson Valley) 有機畜牧業產出的純淨鮮奶來製作拿鐵或卡布奇諾。除了傳統的濃縮咖啡, 也有很多店家製作費時的冰滴咖啡及用Hario手沖壺一杯杯沖出來的新鮮咖啡。這些店家也同時販售一些烘培小點搭配飲品, 和紐約當地的手工烘培家合作, 每天提供新鮮並使用當季食材的點心。一種在地各行業互惠並讓居民都能享用到高品質產品的態度讓這些店家深深抓緊了紐約客的心。當然我的心中也有幾家最愛, 在這裡就不藏私的一一分享。
With this trend, a large number of independent coffeehouses that only use fair trade or direct trade beans pop up all over the city. Besides exceptional coffee, they choose to use clean and organic dairy from the Hudson Valley farms for their lattés and cappuccinos. On top of the regular espresso shots, cold dripped coffee and individual freshly-made coffee from a Hario kettle are also very popular among the customers. Pastries are a must in these coffeehouses, collaboration with local bakeries guarantees daily deliver of fresh pastries made with local and sustainable ingredients. This mutually beneficial business model with a focus on serving the community with the best has got New Yorkers by the heart. And of course, I have a few personal favorites to share with you.
1. Culture Espresso Bar 72 W 38th Street New York, NY 10018 http://cultureespresso.com/ ＊每日清晨讓我振奮精神的小小咖啡屋, 咖啡棒, 點心好吃, 還有我認為全紐約最美味的鮪魚三明治。 * My daily visit to brighten the mornings, great coffee, excellent pastries and they also serve the best tuna sandwich in New York.
2. Ground Support 399 W Broadway New York, NY 10012 http://groundsupportcafe.com/ ＊位於蘇活區很潮且咖啡水準超高的店家。 *The trendy Soho cafe with exceptional coffee.
3. Gimme Coffee 228 Mott Street New York, NY 10012 http://www.gimmecoffee.com/ ＊順口到我以為喝到熱巧克力的店家, 喝過一次我就忘不了。 *The latté was so smooth tasting that I thought I was drinking hot chocolate, I haven't forgotten that first taste ever since.
4. Blue Bottle Coffee 160 Berry Street Brooklyn, NY 11211 http://www.bluebottlecoffee.net/ ＊鼎鼎大名的藍瓶子從舊金山灣區進攻紐約的第一家店面。可以看到透明化的咖啡製作過程, 啜飲香濃咖啡之際還可以順便觀察威廉堡潮流男女的裝扮。 *First store in New York by the infamous bay area Blue Bottle. Transparent coffee production, trendy customers, and what else but great coffee.
5. Cafe Grumpy 224 West 20th St New York, NY 10011 http://www.cafegrumpy.com/ ＊超低調不做作但每一杯咖啡都很用心的好店。 *A really low-key unpretentious cafe that serves exceptional coffee.
6. Stumptown Coffee 18 W. 28th St New York, NY 10001 http://stumptowncoffee.com/ ＊位於Ace Hotel內的Stumptown, 環境美麗咖啡也非常誘人。 *Stumptown is inside of the trendy Ace Hotel, the coffee and interior decoration are both excellent.
These are a few of my personal favorites, but that doesn't mean all other cafes are not good enough. I encourage all of you coffee-lovers to try as many cafes as you can until you find one that steals your heart!